Chains

Q. 1 -  Why should I replace my chain?

A - Chains, especially on mountain bikes have a very hard life as they are constantly being sprayed with dirt, grit, mud and water. This stuff mixes with our chosen lubricant to form a wonderfully efficient grinding paste which wears our chain and gears from day one.

As the chain wears it becomes longer thus increasing the distance between each link. This larger dimension of each link of the chain creates wear on sprockets and chainrings thus demanding their replacement too.

It has been proven that if chains are replaced before they become too worn and stretched then you will get much longer life out of your sprockets and rings. Mike usually goes through about three chains before the rear sprockets are too far gone. If the sprockets are too worn when a new chain is installed then the new chain will ride up on the teeth of the old sprockets and skip a tooth as torque is applied to the drivetrain.

How do I know what length my new chain should be?

The chain MUST be long enough to be able to be in the largest sprocket and chainring on the bike without doing damage to the derailer.  Do this:   Place the chain around the big sprocket/big ring combo WITHOUT going through the derailer. Match up the chain to its shortest length and add one inch (TWO LINKS) (or one link and a PowerLink) - which is a set of innie plates and a set of outie plates. Break the chain at this length with a chain tool.  Make sure you have two "male" ends if you are using a mechanical link (like a PowerLink).   If you are going to re-rivet the chain (not as strong or as easy as a PowerLink) then you will need a set of male and female ends to join.

Full Suspension bikes - some bikes due to the suspension configuration make the chain extend as the suspension is compressed.  Please disconnect the rear suspension shock and see if passing the rear triangle through its full range of motion extends the chain.  If it does you are going to have to add extra chain to compensate for this.
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There is a misconception that somehow the cage length of the derailer (you can buy them in small-medium-long cage versions depending on make and model).   The cage length has nothing to do with the necessary maximum chainlength.  The cage length only comes into play when there is slack chain (off the big/big combo) and it decides how much loose chain is wrapped up.  It will determine how much slack you have in the combos approaching the small/small combos.  

BTW - the big/big combo is not to be considered a usable gear but if there is not enough chain to span these two gears if they are shifted into by accident then drivetrain damage will result.

Do not be concerned if the chain droops down when you're in the small/small combo. If you remove links to correct this then it obviously will be too short for the bigger sprockets. As with the big/big being an unusable gear, the small/small is not usable either. If you doubt me, just place the chain on either of these two extreme gears, squat down behind the bike and look at the horrible angle that the chain is running at. Can you say "drive-train wear"?

Q. 2 - How do I know when my chain needs replacing?

A - By simply measuring the chain with a ruler or tape measure. The distance between any two pins on a new chain is 1/2". As the chain wears this distance increases by a few thousandths of an inch. Over the distance of many links, this increase can be readily measured.

We take the measurement over the distance of 24 links and as the measurement of each one is 1/2" then 24 of them should measure 12". Measure the chain while it is on the bike as the derailer tension stretches the chain slightly. You may also hang the chain from a nail to give the necessary stretch.

So - measure 24 pins from center to center (or edge to edge) and the distance should be 12" on a new chain and no more than 12 1/16" for a chain in use. Measure the chain often - like once monthly - and discard when the measurement reaches that extra 1/16". If you allow the wear to increase to +1/8" you will probably have to replace the sprockets too. Anything above 12 1/8" will have done serious damage to the front chainrings also.

Q. 3 - What do I do if my chain skips when I apply pressure to the pedals?

Gulp - the third reason is serious. You didn't replace your chain waaaaaaay past the point that it was worn out and it not only toasted the rear sprockets but the chainrings too. If you compare the chainring teeth to known good ones you will see that they are worn and hooked. Sorry - be more attentive to the needs of your bike in future.

Q. 4 - What is the best kind of chain to use?

A - We find that the SRAM PC series of chains give good service, are relatively inexpensive and are easily repairable on the trail.
SRAM bought out Sachs who bought out  the Sedis chain company who had been making chains for many years.  Their sheer number of different chains seems confusing at first but here is info to de-mystify the situation -

PC-48, 58, 68 - for 6-7-8spd drivetrains.  The higher the number the better the quality.
PC-59, 69 - for 9spd drivetrains.
PC-89R - perforated outer plates for lightness.
PC-89R Hollow Pin - perforated outer links and hollow pins.
PC-99 - stronger, cross-step riveting.
PC-99 Hollow Pin - stronger, cross-step riveting and hollow pins.

To join the new PC chains you must use SRAM's Powerlink which is the strongest way to join the chain  Their chains can be shortened with any chain tool.
Powerlinks are supplied with the chains and spare ones may be obtained for trail-side repairs.  A chain tool is still needed to remove broken links.

Taaaa-daaaaa - we just did the "complicated" job of measuring front and rear chainlines in two minutes!

Drivetrain

Q. 1  My rear hub ratchety thing (Freehub unit) on my Shimano hub is acting weird.  Can it be serviced?

Yes it can.  Your Freehub can be purged of old, dirty lubricant and the internals - ball bearings, pawls and springs - can be lubricated with fresh oil by using a wonderful tool - a "Morningstar Freehub Buddy".

This tool can be bought from many sources for approximately $25us. I got mine from Frankford Cycle mail-order.  Third Hand and Colorado Cyclist sell them too.

To lube your freehub you will need to follow these steps -

1. Remove rear wheel, remove QR skewer, remove cassette (cassette removal tool, chain whip and an adjustable wrench are needed).
2. Remove hub axle. (cone wrenches are needed - Shimano hubs use sizes from 13-18mm. I'd suggest getting two of each size as you NEVER have the correct size if you don't have all the wrenches - it's just Murphy's Law).
3. Remove all ball bearings. Pry out (gently!!) the dust shield in the end of the Freehub (ratchety thing).  Morningstar also markets a special prybar for this step and I've used a screwdriver with varying degrees of success).
4. Insert a 10mm allen wrench (big sucker!) into the hollow bolt that holds the Freehub unit onto the hub body. Remove bolt and freehub.
5. Remove dirt seal from back of FH unit.
6. Insert Freehub Buddy into front of Freehub. Squirt in (with a pump oilcan) some nice Outboard Motor Gearcase Oil or whatever oil you choose. Watch the dirt purge from the back of the unit. When it runs clean you can stop pumping.
7. Let Freehub drain. Wipe it off.
8. Reverse the removal procedure and replace Freehub, dust shield, and axle. Don't forget to grease those bearings, cups and cones! Check them very closely for pits too and replace if necessary (hub cups cannot be replaced).

There you go! If you do this as often as needed (depending on your riding conditions), your Freehub should last forever.

Note - the scope of this FAQ can't give you all the details of stripping your rear hub.   What you need is a good book on bike repair.  Hmmmmm........I wonder if there is such a thing available :o\

Q. 2  Can I convert to 9spd easily?

This info was provided by "tacoma" from mtbr.com -

Due to the recent spate of 9spd confusion-related posts at mtbr,  I'm going to post this as a service to myself and anyone else who frequently reposts the same stuff.  If any of this seems obvious, hey great, you're halfway home. I'll also try to include any reverse-compatibility as well.

Here is what is necessary to swap to 9spd, if you already have an 8spd system.   Now, you can debate the finer points, but this is what works.

1.  Do I need real 9spd shifters?  You will not get 8spd shifters to work, or at least not well. 9spd shifters will not work with 8spd cassettes. You MUST use 9spd shifters.

2.  Do I need special hubs for 9spd cassettes?  No.   This will fit your 8spd hubs, because it is the same width. So-called 9spd hubs will also accept 8spd cassettes, for the same reason.

3. Do I need a 9spd chain?  Yes as they are narrower, to fit the narrower spacing on the cassette. They will not work well on 8spd cassettes as the cogs seem to be a little thicker.

That is ALL you need. Here are some common questions about the other stuff.

Do 8spd chainrings and crank w/9spd system? -- this setup works fine. Supposedly there CAN be some problems but I don't know what they are or how they could happen-- the rings are the same thickness, and so is the spacing on the spider. Race Face did send me an email from their chainring guy stating that a very very minor change in tooth shape was made to the 9spd rings, but also that a properly set-up 8spd chainring will probably be fine. For me and many others around here that is the case. No problems.
Does 9spd suck in the mud more? -- in my experience, yes. Not a whole lot worse than 8spd but enough to notice.
Does 9spd increase maintenance? -- yeah, I guess so, but for me at least, it's only increased to the proper amount. For slackers like me, that's a good thing, it ensures that I will do the minimum when I'm supposed to. If you are a good little mt. biker, you are doing the right thing at the right time and all is well.
Can I use an 8spd rear derailleur with 9spd cassette? -- Absolutely. As long as it can handle the spread on the cassette, you'll be fine. (All reasonably modern derailers will handle this - Mike T.)  The derailleur is a "dumb" component, it does what the shifter tells it.
Can I use an 8spd front derailleur with 9spd? -- Yes, the front chainrings are the same and no changes are needed.
If anyone would like to add to this, please do.  
Mike T. here -  as this is all tacoma's work and opinion and he left no eeee-addy, just send me Q's, complaints, summonses, writs etc and I'll try to contact him !!   Bwaaaaa.

Q. 3  -   I just fitted clipless pedals recently and I'm not sure if they're a good idea.  I keep falling because I can't get out of them when I stop.  I'm frustrated!!  Can you help?

A - Ok - settle down!  Yes, I can help and I can sympathize too.  Clipless pedals are probably the best single upgrade you could do for your bike but they do take some getting used to and maybe I can give you some tips.

First of all you must keep them clean for them to release easily and consistently.  Spray them off with a hose and take an old toothbrush to them to get all the muck out and keep the pins and springs lubed with some thicker oil.  Spray the places where the cleats touch with Slick 50 (from Wal-Mart) or White Lightening chain lube.  Look after them before every ride.

Also, most pedals have adjustments for release and retention (except Frogs, Time ATAC and Eggbeaters) and these should be adjusted quite loose so that it is easy for your cleat to release.  Back the adjustments way off and only tighten them more if you pop out unexpectedly.  Give them some time before you tighten them as your leg muscles will realize that they have a job to do in keeping the foot stable and it doesn't always take a set of tight springs to hold you into the pedals.

If the pedals are adjusted loose enough, you won't be able to stay IN them, never mind not being able to get out of them!  So let's not hear anymore of this "help, I feel trapped in my pedals" stuff.

Before you take your first ride, try the pedals in the driveway or on the lawn while holding onto something.  Practice turning the heel out to make the release at all positions of the pedal circle.  Like any new skill, it has to be practiced many times before it becomes an automatic reaction. And when you're crashing and banging over rocks and roots and you have to get your foot down in a hurry you don't have time to think.

Try releasing each foot and use both sides of each pedal just to make sure the release tensions are about the same.  You should have to use very little force to release the foot.  Practice clipping in and out a few dozen times.  When you go for your first ride, choose a grassy park.  Ride around while practicing continuously and do lots of stops and starts.

When you finally feel comfortable, venture onto some trails that are not too technical.  Keep practicing as repetition is your salvation.  You will find that when caked in mud the pedals are harder to get into and out of. This is normal and it is relative to three things - your skill, the pedals you have and the type of mud.  Some people have great luck with certain pedals and some people hate the same ones.  You may go through a couple of makes of pedal before you find the one that suits you, your style and the conditions that you ride in.  Just don't give up as they are a wonderful invention.  

Remember the important points !!

• Keep the pedals clean and lubricated.  Worn cleats also release poorly.
• Keep the adjustments loose.
• Try to anticipate upcoming stops.
• Practice and practice some more.

Q. 4   What is the difference between the different clipless styles (SPD, LOOK, etc.)?
Is one better than the others? I'm thinking about switching to clipless and I'm trying to decide what to get.

Cyemm's answer, with comments by Mike T. -

I've used flat pedals, toe clips, Powergrips, and clipless pedals. My unquestionable favorite is clipless.

Flat pedals still have their place, when you're going to/expect to fall a lot there's absolutely nothing hindering you. Trials, jumpers, and ultra technical singletrack are a couple of examples where flat pedals just make sense.

Toe clips are basically useless on a mountain bike, unless all you're doing is paved rail-trail type stuff.
In order to get any benefit from straps (a more solid connection, greater spin efficiency), they have to be tightened.
A toe strap that's cinched tight cannot be escaped from in a fall. As a result, people run with the straps
loose so you can pull out in a fall, thereby destroying any spin advantage of having toe clips on the bike.
You pick the lesser of two evils - you have that trapped feeling, or you get no advantage over running simple flat pedals.
The only conceivable reason to allow them on the bike is to help your feet from slipping off during a panic
stop. Run them loose and they may keep you from getting the dreaded pedal/shin bite when the crank spins around and nails you on the leg that just slipped off, powered by your body weight on the opposite pedal.

Powergrips are pieces of wide rubber/fabric that run diagonally from the outer front to the inner rear of the pedal.
You slip your feet into this loop and can infinitely vary the tension by simply rotating your heels.
Heels in = tight, Heel out = free. This is good in that it's the same release principle as clipless, easing the transition. The loops give a pretty good power transfer and can simulate the clipless experience pretty well.
A downside is you have to become proficient at flipping the pedals, as they'll always stay powergrip side down. Not a huge, hairy deal, though.

Clipless. The pinnacle. Direct connection to to bike, intuitive (once past the learning curve) release, excellent spin, easy control over the rear of the bike, instant bunnyhops, doublesided, no-look engagement (step and go), ready made shoe dryer (just leave your soggy shoes clipped in on the ride home :}), getting the idea that I like clipless?

O.K. the downside. The learning curve - you'll fall. A lot. Wear your lid, elbow and kneepads aren't a bad idea, either.

Mike T's comment here - I don't agree with the "fall a lot" comment as my FAQ on clipless pedals just about does away with the problem. I recognize Cyemm's opinion but it doesn't have to be that way. 

GO CLIPLESS!   It's the best upgrade you can do to your bike!

There's two schools of thought when buying your first clipless pedals;

One is that you buy a "cheap" pair so that if you decide it's not for you you're not out a lot of money, or...

Two is the idea that you buy good stuff (like 747's or ATAC's) because they retain their value so you can resell them and get back some of your money. (Mike's comment - quality lives on after price is forgotten).

To tell you the truth, I use cheapo Wellgo's. They're tough, engage consistently, and cheap enough to simply
replace if they get smashed on a rock. You can get grease into them with little effort, and that seems to be all they need to spin for a long time. The split rear plate (ritchey design) works well ( better than Shimano's imho).

If you decide to go high end from the start, there's four categories to consider - SPD , ATAC's, Eggbeaters and Frogs.

SPD - Pro - All Shimano products or clones thereof - Consistent entry/release, "universal" cleat, cheap to expensive to buy.
Con - Worst performance in the wet due to mud jams, minor maintenance req'd, plate can jam with log splinters/bend on rocks. SPD stands for "Shimano Pedaling Dynamics".  The new (2001+) Shimano 959s are supposed to be great in mud after the disaster of the 858s.  The older 747s were a nice pedal but fair in mud.

ATAC - Pro - light, lotsa float, mud not an issue, no maintenance. No clones.  A great pedal but probably not the best for clipless Newbys due to the non-adjustable high release tension.
Con - No adjustment for release tension.  Release tension quite high.  Fairly heavy (408g/pair).

Speedplay Frogs - Pro - Small, really light, pretty, lotsa "unique" float (even more than ATAC's), no mud problems, easy grease port. No clones.  No release effort whatsoever.
Con - expensive, funky cleat, different release "feel", a little delicate for a clyde. 
(Mike's comment - I have owned Frogs and did not like the mud entry at all. As there is no audible "click" you never knew if you were in or not - usually I was not.   I ditched them after a year of trying to like them).

Eggbeaters - new on the market but they are getting rave reviews.  Four entry sides per pedal, easy strip-down, excellent mud releasing.  Probably the #1 pedal now.  Mike T. has these now. Easy entry, easier exit (low, non-adjustable release tension), reported to be awesome in mud, light (287g/pair).  Great factory support and parts easily available.

I know I'll get arguments about the list. Everyone finds their own preference. I recommend you get cheapo pedals, good shoes (the important part), and go practice/ride for a month. Time will tell you if you need an upgrade.

Mike's comment - try Nashbar's housebrand clipless pedals (made by Wellgo) as they are about $30 and quite good really. My son has them and likes them.  If you like them then upgrade to the best in this pedal category - Shimano 747 or the new 9 series.  The Shimano 8 series stank.
If you hate them for the mud entry and release problems then go with ATAC's.  As said before, Eggbeaters are getting good reviews and are said to be better in the mud than ATACs - and that's something!  **Sept '02 addition - Egg Beaters are the one to beat now.

O.K. - Pedal float. Everybody asks about it. The first thing is a definition. It means the amount of rotation you can do with your foot before you start to engage the release mechanism. Since we're talking rotation, float is in degrees.

Frogs use a non-spring centered float design - you don't have to overcome spring resistance to rotate your heels in or out, good if you have poor joints that don't like having to run in a narrowly defined zone.  Float on all the others is limited by the release springs.

The reason float is used is that the body doesn't spin the cranks like a machine. There's an interplay between your hip, knee and ankle that allows you to use your many muscles efficiently. So as your knees go up and down, the complicated system of muscles and tendons is constantly adjusting. For most people, this translates into some foot rotation as the crank completes a revolution.

It's related to individual body mechanics - that's why no one can tell you how much float you need. I'm comfortable with the "standard" SPD 4 deg, (Mike - 747's have about 12 degrees, ATAC's 10 or 15) others are not. Warning signs are usually knee pain (barring seat height issues) and a feeling of not being comfortable/clipping out unknowingly.

Skill only plays a role regarding float in the acclimatization stages of clipless - I found that when I moved from flats that I unknowingly was altering my foot position on the pedal to position the rear of the bike (call it unconscious body english). This resulted in me clipping out unexpectedly, exactly when I needed a solid footing. My feet soon learned, though, that this was unnecessary as the rear now had no choice but to go where I wanted it and my excessive foot motion soon disappeared.

If you're happy with your pedals, you don't have to concern yourself with float. If you're having pain, test ride a pair with more (ATAC's - Frogs) to see if it alleviates the problem.

Shoes... These are very important. When you ride flats, you adjust the pressure manually so your feet stay on the pedals, there's no way to use the pulling up motion. When you clip in, one of the big advantages is your ability to apply power throughout the revolution. This pulling up motion means your shoes HAVE to fit well, otherwise the shoe will remain attached to the pedal while your heel moves up inside the shoe - recipe for blisters and discomfort.

Proper fit means snug, not tight. The heel "counter", the cup that cradles your heel, should fit very closely without you having to crank the laces/straps too tight. Laces tend to give a better fit than straps, but don't let this stop you from buying a pair of strap only shoes that fit you. European sizing is used as it gives a wider range of sizes.

The other thing to look for is sole stiffness and lug design. Since you're going to be directly connected to the bike via a small platform, it's essential that the sole be stiff for efficient power transfer and foot comfort. You shouldn't be able to flex a biking shoe sole appreciably with your hands. The tradeoff here is that a stiff sole is great on the bike, but a pain to walk in. If you're going to hike-a-bike or commute, a shoe with a softer sole will give more off-bike comfort at the expense of efficiency. Lugs are important because for a sole to be stiff, the compound has to be hard, meaning that the sole doesn't conform/stick to surfaces like a pair of sneakers would. So big lugs/toe spikes are a good thing if you'll spend much time walking on the dirt.

Now the setup - actually mounting the cleats  -  please refer to the manufacturer's instructions that come with all pedals.  As different types (Frog, SPD, ATAC) have differing instructions. Grease the cleat screws (better still use Anti-Seize) before mounting cleats!!  You will thank me for this info when you come to change or adjust cleats.

Fitting the pedals are easy... unscrew the old and screw in the new. The Left pedal has a left hand thread (one of three on a bike). Use a pedal wrench on the flat portion and/or an allen/hex key (if there's a machined recess to accept one). And grease the threads first!

There's small hex bolts at the leading edge of each SPD (or clone) pedal. These control the tension. (The force you need to overcome to "get out".) Unscrew these until the indicators read MINIMUM tension. This means your untrained feet won't be fighting to get out during the learning phase, which means you'll fall over less often. Put a small dab of lube on each pedal (White Lightning works for me). (There is NO adjustment on ATAC's, Eggbeaters or Frogs)

Now go practice. Bring the allen/hex wrench with you as the cleat will loosen the first couple of times you ride.  Make sure you check the cleat screws for the first few rides!  Very important.

**Go to Mike T's FAQ around here on clipless pedal usage.

***Why are they called "clipless" when you have to always clip into them?    They should really be called "toe-clipless" as the standard used to be "toe clips and straps" before these new-fangled pedals came out.  So they really meant "toe-clipless pedals".

General Stuff

Q. 1 - What should I carry with me when I ride?

A -  You should carry at least: spare tube, tire levers, patch kit, pump, chain tool, tire sidewall boot material, 5mm allen wrench. These tools will probably save you a long walk home someday. Wrap the tube in an old sock to prevent chafing holes in it while it's jiggling in your under saddle bag.

For easily repairing your chain, consider carrying on of the useful replaceable chain links by SRAM (Sachs) or Craig.

Also you should have: water, food, identification, a whistle, bug and sun cream, money. I carry the ID and the whistle around my neck on all rides.

Q. 2 - What do you consider your most important piece of equipment?

A - A small trail bell by far. The positive PR that comes from politely warning other trail users is immeasurable.

Q. 3 - Why is PR important?

A - Complaints of rude and inconsiderate trail riders go a long way towards trail closures. Let's portray ourselves as polite ambassadors for our sport. The next hiker you sass just might be the land owner.

Q. 4  Is there an easy way to teach someone to ride a bike?

It’s easier for kids to teach themselves how to ride a bike and this goes for kids of all ages (5 to 50). The learning process is made more complicated when adults offer to "help". The traditional "Training" wheels just train them to lean on these wheels on one side or the other. They don't teach balance brought on by steering correction which is the essence of two-wheeled riding. Get a bike small enough that when the seat is all the way down, junior can get two feet flat on the ground. Remove both pedals as these just add to the confusion and whack legs.

Take the bike to a quiet parking lot. Sit the kid on the bike and say "See you over the other side of the lot" and walk away. He/she will learn quickly to scoot the bike using both feet for propulsion. Give encouragement from the far side of the lot and much praise when they get there. Don’t give in to temper tantrums or you’ve lost the game. Reverse direction and try again.

After a little while they will be able to glide with feet an inch off the ground for a second or two. The odd major swerve and maybe the odd tumble will be mixed in here. Hopefully you will have outfitted them with protective equipment (fitted and adjusted correctly). Eventually the kid will be able to go for good distances with both feet off the ground - true bike balancing. Resist the urge to hold onto the back of the saddle as this just prolongs the learning curve.

Let them practice until proficient and long glides are being done. Progress to changes in direction and weaving around objects.

They will let you know when they are ready for the pedals. I'd stall putting them back on until there is good proficiency with the pedal-less gliding. Once steering and balance are perfected then pedaling will be an added skill.

That's about it. It's a short learning process with a motivated child and an adult that can restrain themselves from "helping". Have fun.

Q. 5  -   How should I pack my bike for airplane travel?

This article courtesy of Deadly Tedly of Atlanta GA.

Q. 6 - Can you recommend a decent book on bike repairs?

I sure can and it's a beauty.  Try Lennard Zinn's "Zinn and the Art of Mountainbike Maintenance".  You may get it from places like Pete and Ed Books (www.a1.com/pebooks/books.htm).   Those guys have a ton of books and videos on bikes (and most other outdoor subjects too!)

Q. 7 How can I get my @*&$* grips off and on easily?

Ahhh no sweat.  It's easy, and removing your grips takes a few seconds and not hours of struggling.  Remove your bar ends (if you have them) and bar plugs.   Get a long thin screwdriver (mine has a 6" x 3/16" dia blade) and rub it with liquid soap or spray it with WD-40.  Pass it all the way under the grip (make sure you don't poke it up thru the grip!) so it sticks out on the brake lever end.

Now, using the end of the bar as a fulcrum (pivot), twirl the screwdriver around the bar, under the grip.  As you make a full circle, grab the grip with the same hand you have the screwdriver in and pull the grip off all in one motion - so it's push - twirl - pull.  That's about five seconds worth of time.  Far easier and quicker than using compressed air or injecting mysterious concoctions under the grips eh?

To replace the grip, soak the grip in hot water for a few minutes, (wash out the WD-40 with soapy water if you used it), have the bike sitting with the opposite handlebar end resting against a wall,  wet the exposed handlebar where the grip is going, working quickly take the grip out of the hot water and slide it onto the bar.   It will take a goodly amount of force but it will go on better if you don't let it rest - keep it moving up that bar until it's in the right spot.

When it's dry it will be on there reeeeeeeel good.  If the grip loosens up after a while, you might be a candidate for sticking it on with hairspray or spray-can paint.

That wasn't too hard was it?

HOLD IT!!  I've got a new method and it's sooooo good it should be illegal.  The liquid soap or WD-40 above worked well but I now use another product that is much better - Isopropyl Alcohol !!  This is the stuff that is used for cleaning up bicycle disc brake systems (manufacturer recommended!) and delicate things like tape deck recording heads.  Get it at any pharmacy and it's cheap.

I dip the screwdriver in the bottle and use it as a lube to allow the screwdriver to slide under the grip.  Work quickly as it evaporates in no time.

Now here comes the best part - use it as a lube and a fixer for re-installing the grips.  Plug off one end of the grip with one hand and pour the alcohol into the open end.  Fill the grip a ¼ full.  Block off the open end and shake the grip to lube the whole inside.  Pour the alcohol back into the bottle and as quick as a flash, install the grip.  This stuff leaves the inside of the grip kinda tacky and it dries in no-time leaving the grip stuck to the bars.  Ta-daaaaa!  What could be simpler?

Q. 8  -   How should I clean my bike?

That all depends on how dirty it is.  If it's not really dirty just spray Lemon Pledge (yep) on a rag and wipe it down.  To clean a not-too-dirty chain, spray a rag with WD-40, grab the chain on the lower run and backpedal by hand.  Then lube the chain with a drop on each roller and wipe as much off as possible when you're done.  For brake pad gukk on rim sidewalls use green 3M Scotchbrite pads.

If the bike is really dirty then you have to get serious.  I hang my bike under the eaves of the garage with rope loops, or if you're rich use a real bike stand.

I use a wash kit as shown with the addition of a pail, a hose, Dawn dish detergent (cuts grease!), rags, WD-40, chain lube, Pledge, solvent.

1. Remove both wheels.  With the Park gear brush dipped in solvent, scrub the cassette cogs.  Use the ratcheting action to help you.  Let sit & soak.
2. Gently rinse the whole bike with the garden hose.  Noooo it won't do any harm if you don't drill a stream at any bearings!  Just use a raindrop type effect.
3. With frame brush dipped in the suds and not the water, wipe down the whole bike & fork.  Use the bottlebrush for all hard to reach areas.  Rinse with the hose.
4. For really dirty chains and derailer pulleys you're going to have to clean with the solvent.  It's better with the chain off the bike (more on this later).
5. Back to the wheels.  With the stiff brush dipped in the suds, scrub the tire sidewalls and rim at the same time.  Use the soft frame brush on the spokes.  Use the bottle brush for the hubs.  Use the stiff brush for the cassette using the same ratcheting motion.  Use the claw on the Park gear brush to remove crud from between the cogs.  Rinse the wheels.
6. Use the Scotchbrite on the brakepads.
7. Replace the wheels and check the workings of the brakes and gears.
8. Wipe everything down with a rag to dry it.  Let the bike sit to dry.
9. Wipe most things down with the lemon Pledge.  Nooooo not the rim sidewalls!

For really dirty chains - remove the chain (it's simple if you have a SRAM chain with Powerlink) and drop it into an old large plastic coke bottle.  Use your favorite solvent.  Do NOT use gasoline!!  Shake the bottle vigorously, clean yourself up, put the top on the bottle and do it again.  Fish the chain out of the bottle with a bent steel coat hanger and let it drip dry.  Wipe with rag.  Replace chain and lube it.

Q. 9  Why are my brake levers attached to the brakes that they are?

To let you answer your own question I'll let you read this article I wrote. -

To which brakes are your levers attached?  Do you know?  If you know, did you ever think why they’re attached to the levers they are? 

 Most mountain bikers are aware of which lever operates which brake but not many have ever thought why they’re connected to where they are or even whether it’s correct for them.  Maybe by reading this you’ll think about what’s happening and maybe you’ll even think of making a switch.

 Bikes in N. America (where I am) always seem to come with the left lever attached to the front brake.  Even though a few people have offered opinions of why this is so none of them have convinced me that it’s right.  Nothing has ever made sense. Rather than dissecting those reasons I’ll give you my reasons for going against this and even if you don’t make a switch at least you’ll make your decision with some thought.

 I think that the bikes in N.Am are all wrong and the left brake should be connected to the rear brake and not the front.  This is usually called “MOTO”.  Let’s see the reasoning for my opinion.

 I’m right handed so I’ll base the following on that.  If you’re left handed then do the necessary mental switch for your dominant hand.

 What’s the worst thing that can happen when you’re braking?  Yeah I know that going over a 1000’ cliff is the worst but normally the worst thing that happens is that you go OTB (Over the Bars) right?

 Most people go OTB because –

 1 – Their weight is too far forward for the present situation.

2 – They use too much front brake for the present situation.

 When I ride my bike and have to do something like scratch, wave, drink, eat, point or adjust, I do it with my dominant hand – the right one in my case.  This leaves the other hand still on the bars and ready to use the brake lever that’s just a fraction away.  If, when the dominant hand is off the bars a sudden incident arises that needs some braking, it’s natural to apply the brake that’s most handy, correct?  That brake, on all factory assembled bikes, is the font brake.

 Usually when we’re riding one-handed, our bum is planted firmly on the saddle which makes our center of gravity quite high and far forward.  This, combined with the application of the front brake is a recipe for an OTB trip.

 I much prefer my non dominant hand to be in charge of the rear brake.  When doing all the one-handed activities outlined above, the rear brake can be dragged slightly and if the need arises, that brake can be applied as hard as possible with the only negative being that a rear wheel skid is caused.

 So there you are folks – if I have one hand on the bars and in charge of a brake it’s going to be a brake that doesn’t have the ability to launch me over the bars.

 Ok, now it’s your turn, unless you’re left handed, give me a good reason for left/front braking!  Go!  And “Uhhhh my bike came that way” doesn’t count.

** It's quite simple to switch over your cables or even hydraulic lines.  It normally takes two minutes for both types of brakes.

Racing

Q. 1 - I'm considering entering my first MTB race and I'd like to know what to do and what to expect. Can you help me?

A - Yes, I have a few tips to give you. First off, remember that this is a mountain bike race and not WWIII. You're supposed to be doing it for fun and enjoyment so please don't take it too seriously. You should only have two goals in your first event - to finish and to enjoy the experience. Do not give yourself any higher goals as you will probably not fulfill them and thus be a failure. Unless there are less than four in your category your chances of winning a prize are slim to none anyways.

If your race is closer than three weeks away then you have little chance of becoming a faster rider in that time and a big chance of making yourself a lot slower. Don't rush out and triple your mileage as you will overdo it and fatigue yourself. Just carry on riding the way you are used to and you'll be OK. Your event in the Beginner or Novice category will be relatively short so you don't need tons of endurance. If you can ride anywhere for one hour without stopping then you have lots. Leave "training" to the experienced riders.

If possible pre-ride the course in the preceding week or day. Familiarity with the circuit will be the #1 thing that you can do to improve your performance. Get your bike looked at by a good mechanic at least four days before the event and do not do any adjustments or changes after that unless absolutely necessary. Two days before start drinking extra fluids - no not alcohol, stupid ! The day before the event you should pack your gear for the race - make yourself a check-list and keep it near to where you keep your stuff. Modify the list as necessary as situations dictate but keep the same list always.

On your list should be all the essentials - TWO shoes, two sox, one helmet.......get the idea? You'd be surprised the number of racers that don't start their event because they didn't have a check-list and forget something important. Make sure you have a large jug of your local water and three water bottles with you - one to drink on the way to the event, one to take with you in the race half-full and one to drink when you finish. Pack a small towel that's soaking wet into a large zip-lock bag for use after the event. You'll be thankful you've got a wet towel to wipe your grimy face when you're all done. Offer it to someone who didn't read my tips and you may make a friend for life.

Get to the race site early and register right away. Check where the start line is and double check your start time. It's nice to have a responsible person accompany you to keep track of small details like start times and car keys and to watch your bike while you go to the stinky porta-potty six times. Do not take food, camel-backs or tools on the race - you have no time or need for any of them as your race will be short and sweet. Plan on glugging down your half-bottle of water around the half-way point in the event at a natural dismount. Stretch your aching back at that time too and take 30 seconds for the stop. Forty five minutes before your start time go for a gentle ride for 30 minutes and get to the line or start area 15 minutes early. You'll probably be started in "waves" or categories so listen to the announcer for instructions of where to line up for your category. Do not line up at the front of your group if this is your first event as you'll probably be trampled at the start. Line up half-way down your group. Choose what you consider is the correct gear for the terrain in front of you. You will be started in groups and please listen carefully to the announcer. At the gun do not go flat out to keep up with the others. Hold back somewhat and you'll probably pick off lots that went out too fast as the race unfolds. Don't try anything in the race that you've never done before - jumping logs, wheelying steams etc. You'll probably screw up and lose tons of time if you do. Just ride as you normally would. If you want to pass someone, wait for the right moment and say politely "On your left, please." They'll let you by when it's safe. Then say "Thanks, hey - nice bike." as you pass. If others want past you - let them when it's safe for them to go. Say "Good ride, man." as they pass. The course marshals are probably all volunteer and without them you wouldn't have a race. Say "Thanks for helping" as you pass. They'll be shocked.

Keep riding steady the whole race and don't burn yourself out, remember - your goal is to finish. You can't do worse than quit !!! At the finish don't stop on the line as there are others finishing behind you - get off to one side and have your helper meet you there with the water bottle and the wet towel. Now are you glad you took my advice? Offer it to the closest dirty-faced racer.

Find some of the others that you diced with in your race and go over and congratulate them and talk over your experience. You may make more friends for life here. Go back to the car, wash yourself down and put on clean, dry clothes and then go back to the finish and cheer on the real tail-enders. Do not let your bike go out of your hand for one second or you may never see it again. Wait around for the awards presentation even if you didn't win anything and cheer like hell for all those who did. They didn't do it for the water bottle and T-shirt they're being given. They did it for the cheers.

When the presentation is over, find out who the organizer is and go thank him/her for the race. After a weekend of listening to stupid people bitching about problems of their own making - you'll be like a breath of fresh air. The organizer will never forget your thanks. I guarantee it. On the drive home talk about the race to your partner until they say "For crysakes, will you please SHUT UP?" Then just sit there and smile. When you get home, call me and tell me how you made out.

Frames, Headsets & Forks.

Q. 1 - Can my steel frame rust out and how can I prevent this from happening?

A - Yes it can rust through and it is preventable. Water can enter a frame from a few sources and if it's allowed to accumulate it can ruin your frame.

The best products for frame protection are from automobile rust protection applications. The newer breed of these are very thin, penetrating water-displacement oils - quite unlike the thick, tar-like treatments of several years ago.

There are two products that I'm familiar with - Krown and Rust-Chek, and they are available from the franchise rust protection dealers or some auto supply dealers. Look in your local Yellow Pages under "Rust Protection (or Prevention)" to see what's available locally. There is a product called "Frame Saver" but like fancy bike lubes it's probably a re-packaged auto product at a premium price.

I'd get a spray can of Krown and a small bottle of bulk fluid to do a frame. My dealer gave it to me for free when I got my car done by him.

The frame should be stripped completely to begin. You will need an area where you can spill oil without getting into too much trouble and some minor supplies.

I use a very small funnel with a drinking straw as a extension to get into the frame tubes. You may also use a turkey baster (not Mom's good one!). You'll need a margarine tub to drain the tubes into. A helper is handy too.

Look inside the BB shell - are there two holes leading to the chainstays? Then use these to fill those tubes - half fill with the oil, swish around to coat ALL the surfaces and drain. If there are no BB holes into the chainstays then there will be two very small holes at the dropout ends - use the spray cans and thin nozzles here.

Do the same with the seat-stays.

For the DT, ST and TT, put one finger over the hole at one end and 1/4 fill the tube from the other end. Plug this end with a finger and tumble the frame. Make sure you get all the surfaces inside the tubes. Drain well.

There - the job's done! Why not repeat annually? Your frame will never rust away.

Q. 2  -  How can I prevent water building up inside my frame? Why not stop it getting in?

A - Water probably enters at the seat post slot even though you take extreme measures to keep it out. It was not possible to stop it getting into my old Bonty. I'd rather put my efforts into helping it to easily escape.

Water will obviously collect at the lowest spot in the frame so I drill a 3/32" hole under the BB shell. To stop this plugging up with muck I spent years and thousands of dollars developing "Mike's Patented Jiggle Valve". I'll tell you how it operates but don't make one or I'll sue the bike from under you.

I took an old spoke and snipped 1/2" off the end with the bend. I then straightened the bend with pliers. From inside the BB shell I drop the spoke down through the drilled hole and re-insert the BB unit. That's it !! Don't try this at home as serious injury could occur and I AM a professional!

As you merrily pedal along the valve jiggles and keeps your hole unplugged (no the bike's, stupid). 


Q. 3  -  Can I install a HEADSET myself without expensive tools?

Sure you can. It's easy. Follow these tips -

The tools needed for "Poor Man's Headset Installation" are:

Hammer (not too big or too small).
Plastic tipped or rubber hammer.
Two eight inch (or so) pieces of 2x4 lumber.
One workbench or other stable, raised surface.
One trusted helper who knows the meaning of the words "steady, level, left, right, up, down, turn over".
One long (about 8" or so) tapered drift-punch or large flat bladed screwdriver.
Grease.

Let's read what the Park Tool Co.  has to say about headset fit -

Many headset cups are held in place by a "press fit". The headset cup has a slightly larger diameter than the head tube inside diameter. Generally, differences of 0.1-0.25mm are considered adequate for a press fit. If the pressed cup is more than 0.3mm larger than the frame inside diameter, it may be very difficult to install, and frame damage may result.

If the press fit difference is from 0mm to 0.05mm, the press fit may be weak, and may result in movement during use. It may be possible to find a different headset cup that is slightly larger to improve the press fit. Otherwise, a strong grade of bearing retaining compound is recommended. If the headset cup is actually smaller than the inside diameter of the head tube, a new headset with a larger diameter is recommended.

You can measure headtube and headset dimensions with a fairly inexpensive Vernier Caliper.  You can see this tool and this process on the Park Tool site.

There are no mysteries or black magic surrounding headsets and their installation.  They are a simple interference fit.

Assuming the head tube and crown race seat are ready to accept the headset, proceed as follows.

Remove as many of the bike's parts as practical. You will have to invert the frame, so remove at least the wheels and maybe the bar/stem combo so they won't be flopping around attached to the cables.

Headset removal - we're going to tap the old cups out with the tapered drift punch or the large screwdriver.  Some folks use wooden dowel, plastic pipe or an old handlebar but I use the punch.  Look down inside the frame's head tube and you will see the edges of the headset sleeve inside the frame.  Hold the frame with the bottom cup over a rag on the floor (so the cup won't fall too far) and gently, with care and passion, tap the cup out.  Don't be silly and tap all in one spot!  Go around the edges of the cup in a cross pattern to get it coming out evenly.  Flip the frame over for the other cup.  Lots of people freak at the above process but my goodness..........what could be much simpler?  :o\

Headset installation - have trusted helper hold onto back end of frame with bottom end of head tube sitting SQUARELY on one of the 2x4's which is sitting at the edge of the bench.

Place the top cup (make sure it IS the top cup) and gently tap it to just get it started into the frame using a plastic tipped hammer. Grease it lightly before installing. Make sure it is LEVEL by eye. Squat right down next to it and make sure. 

Place the other 2x4 on top of the cup and tap gently but firmly to start the cup going into the frame. This is where judgment comes in. Before you freak and rush off to the LBS remember....the constant checking and re-adjusting strategy from here on in is NO different if a fancy press is used. One must check constantly for the cup going in straight with ANY method used.

If all is level at this point then carry on tapping firmly and checking constantly. Depending on the quality of the interference fit, your taps may need to be little ones or bigger ones - whatever it takes. If the cup becomes un-level then tap on the wood on the high side until the cup is level. Use care, good judgment and passion here.

Keep tapping until the cup is completely seated squarely on the head tube.

Have the helper turn the frame over and repeat for the other cup.

Crown Race
For the fork crown race, get a 2x4 that is a couple of inches longer than the distance from the fork tips to the UNDERSIDE of the fork crown. Place the 2x4 standing on end on the floor and sit the underside of the fork crown on the end of the 2x4. The fork ends will not be touching the floor. Have the trusted helper hold the fork firmly and level by the legs.

Place the crown race (correct side up!) on the seat. Gently, with much care and compassion, tap the race down onto its seat with the drift punch. Go alternate sides (4 of them) to keep it level and square. Keep going until it's firmly seated. Some people use a good fitting pipe - either metal or ABS plumbing pipe here. The store-bought tool is just a fancy pipe. I've used a hammer and punch for 38 years with no problems YET.   Maybe I should buy the correct tool.. Yeah, right.

Q. 4  How do I remove my old fork and install a new one?

Warning - if you're replacing an older fork, be aware of the type of brakes you presently have.  If you have an older bike with "cantilever" brakes (center pull cable with a hanger on the fork) be aware that just about no forkmakers make a fork with a cable hanger anymore.  If you have this type of brakes you are going to have to get a v-brake and a v-brake lever too.  If your shifters are part of the old brake lever you're going to have to invest in shifters too.

 John Burtner June 26, 2000

Wheels and Tires

Q. 1 - Wheelbuilding – can I do it myself? Is it hard?

Of course you can build your own wheels. There is nothing mystical about the issue – all it takes is a minor amount of equipment, some written instructions and some patience along with a willingness to learn. You will feel very proud of yourself when you take your first ride on your first set of wheels.

Wheelbuilding is equal parts of instructions, simple physics, judgment and artistic talent.

I’ve built dozens of wheels for myself and friends over forty years. I won’t tell you how to actually do the job as that is well covered by people with far more typing time than I have. There are references at the end of this section for the sites that will help you with the actual lacing and other things.  I’ll give you some tips that you may not find anywhere else.

The simple equipment needed is:

Your bike frame to use as a truing stand.
Your front fork to use as a truing stand.
A pair of simple inside calipers to check dishing (see pic below).
A spoke wrench of the correct size.  Get a good one here.  Cheap ones will ruin your nipples ;o)  See below.
An old Phillips screwdriver with two webs ground off (see pic below).
A 4" piece of old spoke (the threaded end).
Grease.
Small tin of Permatex Anti-Seize Compound. (get at an auto parts store)
Plastic tipped hammer.
Long punch (6-8" drift punch)
Not much in the way of expensive tools, eh?

What you don’t need -  wheel stand, dishing gauge, spoke tension meter, "Spoke Prep", electric or manual "nippledrivers".

So............this FAQ is dedicated to helping you build your first wheelset without fancy special equipment.  If you had to buy $200 worth of tools to build your first set, you probably wouldn't do it.  Don't listen to those who say you can't build good and accurate wheels using my tips and minimum equipment.  Oh sure, if you're going into semi production then good equipment is more of a benefit, but this FAQ is not about that.  It's about the average guy who wants to try wheelbuilding and who might eventually want to build himself and a buddy one or two sets of wheels per year or replaces the odd rim here & there.

Hold it right here.......nowhere am I saying that it's better NOT to use a  truing stand (which I've been accused of).  I'm not claiming that a stand isn't easier and more convenient to use.  All I'm claiming is that you can do a job of equal quality without a dedicated wheel stand.  That's a claim that I will stand behind as I'm proof of it.  Hey but I DO have a stand and it's more expensive than most - it's a custom Seven Ti frame and a Pace carbon fiber fork ($3000us total).  Beat that.

Get a good spokewrench whatever you do.  Cheap ones will round off the nipples quickly.  Park makes a good one but my fave is on the left.  Get the right size for your spoke nipples.  The black Park is for 14g (the most common) nipples.

  Here is my hi-tech Nipple Driver.  It's an old worn-out cheap Phillips screwdriver with two webs ground off.  It's got a piece of tape applied so that you can easily see and count the number of turns.  It's truly hi-tech as it has two gears - high & low - twirl the shaft or twirl the handle between finger & thumb to vary the gearing.  Beat that for a dollar.  I should patent the damn thing as it works perfectly.

Here are some important tips that I’ve found over a lifetime of wheelbuilding. Some may be found in the literature on wheels and some may not. Probably the most important thing to remember is not to rush your wheels. Go slowly and work with patience, care and passion. You can probably do a better job than most "professional" wheelbuilders as you have unlimited time to do a perfect job.  Try to make your first wheel a perfect job.  When you get experienced you will find ways to make the job faster.  If you're doing one or two sets of wheels per year like the average bike rider then what's an extra couple of hours?

Before you begin, assemble all your tools and supplies. I sit on a low stool with everything spread around me on the floor so I can’t drop anything too far. You only need to put the wheels into the frame for final tensioning and truing. You have a long way to go before that stage.

Take that 4" piece of spoke and screw a nipple onto it upside down. Dip the nipple into grease and grease each nipple seat in the rim. This reduces friction for tensioning & truing.

Paint the threads of all the spokes with anti-seize compound. This allows you to easily re-true months and years down the road.  That stuff is messy so be sparing and careful.  If you don't want to buy anti-seize at least use grease or oil but it won't last as long as the anti-seize.

Please do not ever use LocTite, as properly tensioned wheels do not need gluing together. They are also hard to re-true. The spokes will tend to wind up instead of the nipples turning.  It's correct spoke tension that holds wheels together, gives them their strength and prevents nipples from unscrewing.

Locktite - Yes I use blue locktite for many applications but the extremely small radius of the spoke cross section has a hard time resisting the torque required to overcome the drag imposed by the locktite on spoke threads. Thus, instead of the nipple turning on the spoke threads, the spoke tends to twist. This is called "spoke wind-up" and it results in incorrect tension - you THINK you tightened the nipple a 1/8th turn while in effect you twisted the spoke an 1/8th turn. When the wheel is stress relieved, this twist comes out and the wheel loosens off minutely.

Make sure you have your spokes in four groups or bunches. Front spokes are sometimes the same lengths as non-drive rears but drive side rears are usually shorter. DO NOT MIX THEM UP!!   Bring the bunch (16?) you're working with near to you and keep all the others away, still in their respective bunches. 

Make sure the rim labels can be read from the right side of the bike and the hub names can be read from the rear of the bike and that tire valves come out between the parallel spokes. Why? Re-read my sentence on "Care and Passion" – have pride in your wheels and try to do them as perfectly as possible.  Those are the first things that wheelbuilders look for when someone shows them a set of wheels and says "My first wheels, waddya think?"

With hollow rims it is easy to get nipples lost inside the rim. To make it easier to install nipples in some rims, screw one onto your 4" piece of spoke about two turns and poke it down through the rim hole.  If you can do this with your fingers then do it as it's much quicker.

Apply masking tape around the rim at the valve hole.  This gives you a frame of reference when going around the rim bringing spokes up to tension.  ALWAY start and stop at the valvehole and don't let anything disturb you or you'll lose your place.  Ignore the phone and the door.  Only stop if you smell smoke, see flames or the Swat team bursts in.

When screwing down the nipples, do everything EVENLY all the way around the wheel so you do not get the rim off center or get hops in it.  I can't stress this important part enough.

Screw the nipples on about 2 turns – this step is not crucial – approx. 2 turns is close enough but don't do it more than 4 or you might not get the final few nipples on.  I just give four twists with finger & thumb. When you have all the nipples on double check the lacing.  Make sure both sides have the same # of crosses!! and that all the spokes are over or under where they are supposed to be.  One guy I knew did one side of a wheel x3 and the other side x4.  Ahem.  With your modified Phillips screwdriver, screw all nipples down until 1/8" of thread remains. Now take them all down until two threads remain and then once again until all threads JUST vanish inside the nipple.

DO NOT RUSH or cut short the above step as it is your only means of making sure all the nipples area screwed down evenly. It ensures a hub centered perfectly in the rim.

From this point on you have NO FRAME OF REFERENCE of how much the nipples are screwed down relative to each other. You must do everything evenly until you come to final truing. Make sure from now on that you count spoke wrench turns or fractions of a turn. Example: If you turn the wrench ¼ of a turn for one nipple make sure you turn all other nipples the same.

Start tensioning the wheels (still in your lap) by tightening the nipples 1 turn each. You may use your modified phillips screwdriver for this early stage as with its tape in place you can easily count turns or partial turns.  Go around once. If they are still mostly loose, go around again with another turn. If some were getting tight then go with ½ or ¼ turn all round. Remember to keep the turns even.  It's far better to go round 5x doing half turns than to go round once doing two turns and then find out you can't get two turns out of the last few spokes.  Ignore this advice at your peril.  If you have the correct length spokes you will probably have to go around about six times.  Don't get bored and rush the process - just do one nipple turn per round.

Big Tip - It's very important to do everything even and if you're anything like me you drop the old spoke wrench once in a while.  So you bend down to pick it up and you've forgotten where you were on the wheel.  Now waddya do?   Well........I keep an extra spoke wrench in my pocket for such times and I never let go of the spoke I'm working on.  The cheap way is to keep a piece of  tape handy and before you bend down to pick up the wrench, just stick that tape to the last spoke you tightened.  Dead simple eh?  Whatever method you use don't forget the last spoke you turned!

Keep going with this until you have a fair amount (judgment-call time!) of tension in the wheels. Do not be concerned about trueness or dish at this time.

Spokes, when they are first tensioned tend to stretch somewhat, straighten out and bed into the soft alloy of the hub flanges. We want to take all of that stretch and stuff out of them while we are doing the actual building. If we don’t, they will continue to stretch, straighten and bed on our first few rides and they will slacken off and allow the wheel to go out of true.  I've seen wheels loosen off so bad during their first ride that they are unridable.

When we build, we put stresses into the spokes and other components. These stresses must be reduced and evened out as much as possible between every spoke.

There are four techniques that achieve the above three steps of pre-stretching, stress reliving and bedding. Each separate method achieves more than one effect so I will lump them all together under "Pre-stressing and Stress Relieving"

Method 1. Perform this once only, just after you have got a fair amount of tension in the wheels. Where the "heads in" spokes exit the hubs – take the plastic tipped hammer and tap the spoke bend a little flatter. This does not take much effort.

Method 2. Perform this after every "round" of truing or tensioning. Grasp parallel pairs of spokes on each side – one pair in each hand - while wearing leather gloves and squeeze them in the hands as hard as you can. Go all around the wheel once.

Method 3. Perform after every round. Take a plastic handled screwdriver, place the handle just above the spoke crosses furthest from the hubs and force spoke crosses down towards the hub with the handle.  Don't go ape here, use judgment and passion.

Method 4. Perform once. Take the screwdriver handle and slightly twist the final spoke crosses around each other. Be gentle here.  This is not really a "twist" but just a slight, very slight bending.  The spokes will do this themselves if you don't do it but then they might lose a minute bit of tension too while doing it.

Method 5. Do this once after you have a fair amount of tension on the spokes.  Take a thin punch and a hammer.  Tap the head of each spoke to seat the head squarely in the hub flange.  I said "tap" don't forget.

When you have a good degree of tension in the wheels (judgment call here), place the wheels in the frame or fork and check and adjust the dish.

DISH – "centering of the wheel between the hub locknuts, chainstays or fork blades".

Wheels must run along the same line as the centerline of the bike's frame.  The middle of the axle (or really half way between the axle locknuts!) is the center line of the frame.  But hub flanges aren't equidistant from the locknuts due to the space need by the cassette and disc brake rotors.  Take a close look at a hub and you will see what I mean.  You rim will necessarily be centered between the hubs flanges - this will happen only on non-disc front wheels and some single speed rear wheels.

To achieve Dish some spokes (gear or disc side) will be more upright than the non drive side or disc side spokes.  Those more upright spokes will have more tension due to their higher pulling angle.

Measure with the inside calipers from rim wall to stay or blade. Slacken all the spokes on one side of the wheel ½ turn and tighten an equal ½ turn on all spokes on the other side. This will move the rim over.  Repeat until centering is really close.

Begin to true the wheels. Check Sheldon Brown's  site (reference below) for the fine details of truing.  Work on wobbles from each side of the wheel alternately. Hold a screwdriver against the stay or blade and let the rim scrape it to indicate the high spots. Move the screwdriver away until you just get a slight zing - this is the apex of the high spot.  If it's a big high spot, loosen about three spokes on either side of it.  Radiate outwards from it in lesser amounts of turning.  Say do a ¼ turn at the apex spoke, half that on the spoke either side of it and half that again on the two further away.  Sure you can't measure this but just be aware of doing it lesser and lesser as you move outwards.  Make damn sure you always working on the spokes on the correct side of the rim!!!

Check for out of round hops. If you took my advice at the start to screw all nipples down evenly then there will be no major hops. Minor ones can be ignored.

When you have trued, stress relieved and bedded the spokes and you are getting to what you consider to be the end of the process (another judgment call) then you need to "tune" the spokes. This tells you the relative tension** of all the spokes to each other. Obviously each spoke should be the same tension as all the others so that they all bear the same stress. Equal musical pitch equals equal tension!   So – pluck the spokes halfway along their length and adjust as necessary. Just make sure ping equals ping instead of pong. BTW – non-drive side spokes will be less tension than drive side spokes so do not compare the two sides.  Front disc brake wheels will be different side to side too.  Best not compare any side with another side.

Someone just stated at mtbr.com that he couldn't get a different reading on his fancy spoke tensiometer with a ½ turn of the nipple but he could tell the tonal difference of about an 1/8th turn by ear.  Verrrrrrry interesting.

When the spokes are tuned, then go back to truing and stress relieving and keep working back and forth until you cannot make the wheels any better. Only tune once though as the act of truing the wheels will make some spokes have slightly different tension. This is unavoidable and normal.

**TENSION – probably the hardest part of wheelbuilding (it is for me) is deciding how much tension is enough. Oh, sure there is an expensive "Tensiometer" on the market built specially for this job but millions of wheels have been built successfully over the last hundred years without one.  Probably the best thing to do is to squeeze pairs of spokes on known good wheels (try expensive bikes at the bike shop) and commit the feel to memory.

It is almost impossible to get too much tension to the point where things start to break or crack. The nipples will round off before this happens. Just be reasonable here.  When you think you have enough tension then you probably have.  Spoke makers have a big range for their spokes' recommended tensions so there is a good chance you will be within that range.  I usually quit when the nipples start pinging during tensioning. My final tensioning is usually down to 1/8^th turns or less.  Do not concern yourself with the differences between drive side and non drive side tensions - or side to side differences in disc brake wheels which are dished too - the differences will be what they have to be to allow the dish to happen.

Eventually you will not be able to improve the wheels at all. That is the time to wipe off all the grease (I use disc brake Isopropyl Alcohol), mount the rim tapes, tires, tubes and cassette and go for a ride to marvel in the wonder of how such fragile individual parts have the combined ability to hold up so much weight.

For the physical act of wheelbuilding try Sheldon Brown’s website at www.sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html
Link to Park Tool truing info.  Nice stuff.  www.parktool.com/repair_help/howfix_truing.shtml
I like DT-Swiss' spoke calculator,  it allows you to save your work and re-call it later.  http://www.dtswiss.com/index.asp
For a great spoke calculator try http://www.damonrinard.com/spocalc.htm  Get the full strength version.
Tuning spokes by ear!  An interesting site - www.bikexprt.com/bicycle/tension.htm
 

Tying & Soldering.
This is the old art of making a wheel stiffer and more homogenous.  This art used to be used many years ago on the wheels of track racers and some road racers and more recently it has been used on mtb wheels.  There is a good write-up of this in Gerd Schraner's "The Art of Wheelbuilding".
I'll make no claims for its usefulness and just tell you how I do it.  The final spoke cross is wrapped with thin wire and then the wire is soldered to hold it from unraveling.  This in effect makes the strain on one spoke transfer to the spoke it's tied to and thus maybe it spreads the strain more evenly around the wheel.

This is from the DT-Swiss website (makers of DT spokes) -

I use thin copper wire from an old truck wiring harness.  Go along to an automotive electrical shop and ask if they have any old wiring harnesses that you might have.  I skin-off the insulation and strip out the copper wire strands.  I cut the wire strands into 8" lengths. Schraner uses tinned iron wire and DT-Swiss sell the stuff.  Also you will need a roll of multi-core solder and a tin of paste flux plus an electric soldering iron or gun.
Look at the picture here.  Lay the wire up along the spoke cross and then neatly wrap the wire 5 to 7 times.  Please be neat here and snug the wraps up nicely.  Then finish off as shown.  We don't need any fancy knots or twists as the solder is going to keep everything together.
When all the wrapping is done, apply some paste flux to the wire and neatly apply solder.  Apply a very thin layer and knock off all blobs and excess solder before it solidifies.  You should be still able to see the wire wraps but they should be sealed with solder.  When everything is finished wash off the flux with soapy water and wipe dry.  It takes me a ½ hour per wheel.

Q. 2  - Any good tire-tips?

A - On yesterday's ride we had two torn tire sidewalls in 15 minutes. And it was the first fifteen minutes of a long ride too. The ride would have been a disaster but for the fact I had about three feet of duct tape wrapped around my pump waiting for such an occasion. I put a double patch on the inside for these two unfortunate fellows and away we went. Duct tape rules !

Since that day I've used my duct tape to tape the blown out bead of a tire back onto the casing.  Another ride saved!  Let's not even think of the five mile walk if no duct tape was carried.

More tips - remove your tubes and baby-powder them as we had one that was almost welded inside the tire.

Do not practice flat tire repair for the first time out on the trail, practice at home and then you'll see just how many tire levers you'll need for your tires and just how poor your shitty little mini-pump really is. Get the most expensive mini-pump you can find. Wrap your spare tube in an old sock so holes won't be worn into it through jiggling around in your bag. Carry a repair kit of instant patches for your second and third flat tire of the day. 

Even more tire tips - that slit tire sidewall can be fixed when you get home by sewing the slit together with dental floss of all things!  Just get a needle with a large eye and go to it.  Stick a layer of duct tape on the inside and the repair will last as long as the rest of the tire.

Still more tips - always mount the tire makers' label at the tire valve and on the right side of the bike.  Then when you get a flat tire you can find the hole in the tube and relate the area to a specific place on the tire.  Maybe you will find a thorn still sticking through the tire.

When you have found one thorn (or whatever caused the puncture) feel around the inside of the tire casing for a second one.  Remove the tire entirely and feel all round the interior with four fingers flattened.  I learned that one the hard way today - patch the tube, remove the thorn, inflate the tire and five minutes later it's flat again.  Sheesh.  Check again and find a second thorn.  Darn!

To make tube re-insertion easier and have less chance of pinching a tube, put a small amount of air in the tube just to make it round.  This is easy with a Presta valve - just inflate by mouth.  Try not to use tire levers when re-installing a tire - they make it easy to pinch the tube.

Q. 3  -  Is there a way of studding mountain bike tires so that I can ride on ice?

A - Oh, yes - and here's how. The best tires of all-time for studding are old Fisher or Panaracer Fat-Trax as they had only square blocks for tread which made stud location a snap. Check around to see if any bike shops have them gathering dust. I have two sets and no, I won't sell them.

Get a box of #8 Robertson [square hole] pan-head 1/2" screws and a drill-bit somewhat smaller than the screw dia.  You 'Murricans will have to use Phillips head.

Decide on a pattern but don't get carried away as more is not better - I have them alternating down the center and along the edges about every three inches each. That means the center ones are 3" apart and the edge ones are 3" apart too only alternating.

Drill down through the center of the tread blocks from the outside so that you can see exactly where the screw is going to go. Install the screws from the inside and now you can see if you bought the right length. You should have about 1 1/2 mm's sticking out. This does not seem like much but they will fold over if you have more.

When all the screws are in take a caulking gun with a tube of silicone in it and put a blob on each screw head and smear it smooth with your finger. You may use a tire liner for extra protection. I made mine from slitting old inner-tubes length-wise.

Have fun - you won't believe the traction on sheer ice - like a lake. You won't notice any difference on snow and don't even think of riding on paved roads.

Q.4 - Do you have info on DT-Swiss hubs, 240 version?

Yes, I asked DT-Swiss USA these questions and here they are with their answers -